Today got off to a rather good start. I had the pleasure of a very special tasting with Corney & Barrow at Galvin at Windows. From the 28th floor of the Hilton on Park Lane, London was looking dashing. I have a soft spot for view bars, with their whiff of carefree New York nights. On the table, we had six champagnes: four from Delamotte and two from its sister, the recherché vintage-only producer Salon. These hail from the Côte des Blancs, so Chardonnay was the point of the day. The standout for me from the Delamottes (NV, Rosé NV, Blanc de Blancs 2007 and Blanc de Blancs NV) was the latter. It had honeysuckle on the nose, white peach flavours perfectly balancing its high acidity, and real delicacy of composition. Charming. The Salons were something else - especially the 1997, which seemed but a distant second cousin thrice removed of most grande marque NVs. Complex and alluring, this silken-textured liquid held walnut, brandy butter, brioche-and-marmalade and oxidative caramel notes. Don't go near it if you want a celebration champagne that won't steal your occasion's thunder. This is serious stuff that demands attention, thought, and deference. It needs to accompany fine cooking. It's deep stuff. Almost as deep as its devotees' pockets.